IE TruFIT Dogbone Insert Kit Install DIY Guide

The following install guide is for IEDTCB1 & IEDTCB2 Dogbone Inserts

Thank you for purchasing another high quality Integrated Engineering product! This instruction guide is used for installation of the Integrated Engineering TrueFIT Dogbone Insert Kit. This kit is recommended to be installed by a professional or experienced technician. Integrated Engineering is not responsible for any damage caused by incorrect installation.

Tools required

• Silicon spray
• 22mm socket
• Jack stands or automotive lift
• Floor jack or transmission jack (if you have an automotive lift)
• Torque wrench 

Before beginning installation, Open your insert Kit, inspect all components, and verify part quantities.

Kit contents

• (1)    Small washer
• (1)    Large washer
• (1)    IE mount insert
• (1)    New bolt

Step 1.

Put your car on jack stands or on an automotive lift and identify the dogbone mount bushing located on the subframe.

Step 2.

Remove the 21mm dogbone bushing center bolt.

Step 3.

Apply silicone spray liberally to the new mount insert AND the stock rubber mount. Line up the dogbone insert with the dogbone bushing and press it in by hand part way.

Step 4.

Using a transmission or floor jack slowly press the new mount insert into the stock dogbone mount. We recommend using a short 3 inch piece of pipe or a large socket (36mm or similar). Ensure it presses in evenly so it does not tear or bind on either side. Don’t be afraid to release the pressure and realign the socket or 3 inch pipe to ensure the insert presses in straight.

Step 5.

Place the small washer on the inside of the new mount insert.

Step 6.

Place the large washer on the underside of the new mount insert and reinstall the dogbone bushing center bolt. Torque the new bolt provided with the kit to 75 ft/lbs. DO NOT use the factory torque spec as the new bolt provided is not a stretch bolt.

Step 7.

Enjoy your new mount and drink a beer (if you’re 21 and older).

Thank you for purchasing another Integrated Engineering product. We are dedicated to serving your VW/Audi engine and performance needs. Please check our website frequently for new product releases. If you have any questions or concerns about this product please do not hesitate to contact us.

Integrated Engineering
801.484.2021
sales@performancebyie.com
www.performancebyie.com

14 harmful things you are doing to your turbo

Turbo charged engines are very popular these days and tons of cars are equipped with them from the factory.   However, many people are unaware of the proper maintenance and driving habits required to ensure your turbo has a nice long life.

We've put together a list of common things that will shorten the life expectancy of your expensive turbo.

1. Getting into boost while your oil temps are cold.

One of the worst things you can do to your turbo is get into boost hard before oil temperatures are warmed up.  If you don’t have an oil temperature gauge, a good time is usually a few minutes after your car has reached normal operating temperatures. This usually takes 5-10 minutes but depends on oil type and environmental conditions.

2.  Waiting too long before oil changes

Your turbo requires clean and healthy oil for maximum lubrication. If you oil has broken down, it’s not receiving the proper lubrication.

 3.  Using cheap non-synthetic oil

You don't want to cheap out on your oil.  A synthetic oil is thinner, resists extreme temperatures better and generally lasts longer.

 4. Shutting your car off immediately after driving it hard

Drive your car gently for the last minute or two of the drive, or let the car idle afterwards for at least 60 seconds. By letting it run. the oil will continue to circulate and cool down the turbo. One of the main reasons your turbo will die is because of oil “coking”.  The oil that lubricates your turbo can heat up and form solid oil deposits. This is especially important under racing conditions.

5. Not checking for boost leaks

Boost leaks can cause your turbo to overspin, which leads to failure.

6. Having PCV system failures

On many engines the PCV system is linked directly via a diaphragm to the intake manifold. When these fail, the PCV system becomes a large boost leak, over-spinning the turbocharger.

 7. Running too much boost

Excessive boost pressure can cause heavy, damaging surge or overspin the turbocharger at the top end of the RPM band.

8. Having a non functioning diverter valve

When your diverter valve fails you get pressure spike between shifts that puts excessive load on your turbo.

 9. Getting your car tuned by an amateur

Building a performance car is an expensive hobby. You can cut corners on certain parts of the build but this is not the place!  Certain factory turbos will tolerate being pushed very hard, but others will not. You need an expert to navigate these waters without shredding your parts.

10.  Having a low priced replica turbo

Typically these are cheap for a reason. Corners are cut in material quality, assembly tolerances, and balancing which make these frequently short lived.

11.  Revving the car immediately at startup

It’s important to allow proper lubrication for the turbocharger and other engine parts (such as pistons) to be established before revving the car up.

12. Having a poorly function cooling system

The coolant system must be correctly functioning.  If equipped, this includes the after run pump which helps maintain reasonable temperatures within the turbo internals (CHRA) after shutdown.

13. Having improper oil feed and drain lines

This is often overlooked when piecing together turbo kits on your own. As with many things OEM manufacturers do it right. Line size restrictions and routing are the two main failure causes when it comes to turbo oil and coolant lines.

14. Not priming your new turbo after installation

Replacing your old blow up turbo? Don’t forget to prime the new one! This ensures that your new turbo doesn’t run dry on it’s first startup.

Questions?

While this is a short and brief list, if you have a specific question or want us to get into more detail ask us in the comments below.

IE Customer Spotlight with Noe Garcia's K04 MK6

Noe Garcia has been around the car scene in Salt Lake City for years. Everyone knows the white 2014 GTI from local European Facebook groups, meet and greets, and even the Rocky Mountain Raceway drag strip. He’s one of the founding members of High West Euro and actively attends several NUVW (Northern Utah VW) meets, regularly attends Car and Coffee by Sweet Country  and is always active on BurnAllTheMK6s Facebook group.

Noe wasn’t always a VW fan though. We were surprised to learn that he came from the JDM world with his first car being a 1996 Acura Integra GSR (which had a few bolts on and nitrous). Later down the road he had 2002 WRX and then a 9th generation civic. Noe explained, “I love Hondas, especially older ones because it’s like Legos. There are so many mix and match options that give you a lot of freedom to modify your car”.

When asked Noe he got into cars his response was one that is bound to resonate with many automotive enthusiasts. Noe Said “What got me into cars was the rush of going fast, freedom of the road, and seeing the fruits of labor after hours of wrenching with friends. We spent A LOT of our free time working on each others rides”.

It wasn’t until 2014 when he purchased his first VW. He purchased the MK6 GTI due to it’s combination of overall performance, DSG transmission, and upscale interior. Within 1 week of being new it was already starting to receive bolt-ons and stylizing upgrades.

The IE team had a chance to meet Noe at a company BBQ during the summer. He expressed his love for his GTI but wanted more power. After speaking with our sales team and engineers we had narrowed it down to either our up and coming TSI big turbo kit or a K04.

Noe added at the BBQ, “I really want something that offers a great power upgrade without the huge price tag of a big turbo kit”.

The IE K04 Build

Enter the K04 turbo upgrade. The K04 is genuine turbo manufactured by Borg Warner. It’s known in the VW scene as offering a nice upgrade over the stock K03 turbo, while still offering OEM reliability.

It is worth mentioning that one cannot simply buy a K04 from Borg Warner and Install it on MK6 GTI. To make the turbo plug-and-play like the IE kit, machine work and custom hoses are required. IE machines the compressor housing in our CNC machine shop to accept the diverter valve on the turbo.

Noe Agreed that the K04 based turbo kit, while putting out less power than IE’s big turbo kit, was still going to be a very quick car. It would also be far more affordable. For about $2800 in parts and IE K04 software the car should produce a nice bump in both horsepower and torque. A few other parts are also required such as an efficient intercooler and turbo back exhaust system. In Noe’s case he already them so that wasn’t a big deal.

Months later we got his car into the shop and started the install on his IE K04 kit. It also happened to be the first production IE K04 kit, serial number 001, if you will. The install was quick on the hardware side and took about 4 hours or so.

With the hardware all buttoned up we transferred his GTI from the lift to our chassis dyno. One perk of being a local customer to IE is that you get a custom dyno tune. Peter Blais, our lead engineer and software guru, spent the better parts of couple days dialing things in on the software side. Afterall, the software was going to be released in the near future as part of the IE K04 kit; so it had it be perfect. The end results were quite impressive from a relatively small turbo:

386 WHP @ 5542 RPM, 411 FT/LBS @ 4480 RPM on GT 260 PLUS 104 Octane

381 WHP @ 5250 RPM,  407 FT/LBS @ 4250 RPM on GT 260 100 Octane

362 WHP @ 5560 RPM , 392 FT/LBS @ 4450 RPM on 91 Octane Pump Fuel

The new K04 tune is as smooth as factory tune and can be driven aggressively or to the grocery store without issue.

Power comes on smooth and then rips the tires off when you’re least expecting it (Keep in mind it’s winter in Utah, so the car currently has snow tires equipped). There’s no throttle hesitation or any sort of weirdness of any kind. We expect our future customers to be extremely satisfied and we are proud to stand behind the product.

If we had any recommendations it would be to considering purchasing a sticky set of street tires and possibly a set of slicks or drag radials for the drag strip or race track. The addition of a limited slip differential would also help dramatically in putting the power down.  Those items will make a big difference at the track and will help put the power down. While burnouts may look cool the downside is you aren’t actually going anywhere fast!

Now it’s up to Noe to see what kind of times he can put down at the track!

Engine/Performance

• IE K04 Kit
• IE Custom K04 Tune
• IE Cold Air Intake (IEINCC2 - Available here) 
• R8 Coil Packs (Available here)
• NGK Plugs (Available here)
• APR Boost Tap (IE equivalent IEBAVC4 recommended - Available here)
• Spulen Catch Can Kit (IE equivalent IEBACC2 recommended - Available here)
• Go Fast Bits DV+ (Diverter Valve)
• SPM 3" Catless Turboback Exhaust with only 1 muffler and a resonator
• BSH Throttle Pipe
• Unitronic Intercooler (IE Equivalent IETPCB1 recommended - Available here)

Body/Visual

• Euro Golf R Front Bumper Conversion
• Badgeless R Grille
• Hood Notch Fill
• Votex Sideskirts
• 4D Carbon Fiber Wrap on Roof & Mirror Caps
• Ziza Euro R LED Tails
• Tinted Rear Side Markers
• IE Door Skirt Vinyl Decals

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels

• Koni STR.T Struts
• H&R Super Sport Springs
• 034 Motorsport Rear Sway Bar
• HPA Core Interlock Performance Motor Mount
• 18x8 ET48 Sparco Assetto Gara in Graphite Gray weighing 20.00lbs (winter)
• 225/45 18 Falken EuroWinter HS499 Tires (winter)
• 17x8 ET45 Advanti DST Storm S1 in Matte Black weighing 16.75lbs (summer)
• 235/45 17 Michelin PSS Tires (summer)
• ECS Crossed & Drilled Rotors & OE Calipers

Interior

• New South Boost Gauge
• JL Audio StealthBox
• Alpine PDX-M6 Amplifier with custom setup (Photo Attached)

Would you like to have your ride featured in an IE Customer Spotlight? If so, email us at spotlight@performancebyie.com for more details!

IE Engine Internals For VW & Audi MQB MK7 2.0T GEN 3

Bullet proof your engine!

Integrated Engineering is proud to release several MQB/MK7 2.0T engine internal components to our Volkswagen and Audi customers around the world. These internals are designed to hold the highest power levels and beyond  produced from the latest generation 2.0T EA888 GEN 3 engines. This release includes the internal parts of IE Spec Mahle Motorsport Pistons, IE H-beam and Tuscan I-beam Connecting Rods, Mahle Motorsport Rod Bearings, IE Valve Spring and Retainer Kits, IE Valve Guides, and ARP Head Studs. All prices are listed in USD.

A summary of available GEN 3 engine parts are listed below:

GEN 3 Connecting Rods

• Tuscan I-beam Connecting Rod Set - IE’s most premium connecting rod offering, part number IERTVN1, $649.99. SHOP NOW

• H-beam with rifle drilling 144x22mm Connecting Rod Set - guaranteed to support 700HP, includes rifle drilling which we recommend for daily driven applications, part number IERHVN1-RD, $549.99. SHOP NOW

• H-beam Connecting Rods Set - guaranteed to support 700HP, the workhorse of our rod lineup, part number IERHVN1, $449.99. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 IE Valve Spring & Titanium Retainer Kit

• IE Valve Spring and Titanium Retainer Kit - USA wound springs and titanium retainers made in-house, rated for 8500 RPM, part number IEVTVN2, $549.99. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 IE Performance Valve Guides

• IE Valve Guides - Made in-house from a proprietary heat dispersing alloy, part number IEVTVN1, $9.95 each. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 IE Spec Mahle Pistons

• IE/Mahle stock bore pistons - 82.5mm Bore, 9.3:1 CR, part number MAH-PVN1, $899.99. SHOP NOW

• IE/Mahle stock bore pistons - 83mm Bore, 9.3:1 CR, part number MAH-PVN2, $899.99. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 Connecting Rod Bearings

• Mahle/VanderVell 4 Cylinder Bearing Set - Perfect performance match when used with IE Connecting Rods, part number MAH-VC1027, $159.99. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 Head Studs

• ARP Head Stud Kit - ARP is the only name in the game when it comes to engine hardware. Affordable, totally re-useable, made in the USA.  Part Number ARP-CVN1, $151.99. SHOP NOW

Also coming soon from Integrated Engineering will be GEN 3 Sport Blocks. We currently offer these popular assembled short blocks for 2.0T FSI and 2.0T TSI platforms. Pricing is expected to be roughly $4500 for the GEN 3 version and should be released in summer 2016.

Stay tuned for more exciting MK7/MQB news from IE!

Guide to building your 1.8T 20V engine block

Integrated Engineering's complete guide to avoiding engine block failure

Popular Audi & VW Models that have the 1.8T (1995-2005)

• MK4 GTI
• MK4 Jetta GLI
• B6 A4
• B5 A4
• MK1 Audi TT
• And many more

This in-depth article will educate you on the 1.8T bottom end in stock form, how to upgrade it correctly to meet your performance goals, and what IE has to offer for your build. If you have any further questions feel free to contact us or leave a comment below.

If you’re looking to upgrade your 1.8T engine, you have come to the right place. Integrated Engineering (IE) offers a large product line spanning 1.8T engines to modern day platforms...
Additional guides pertaining to 1.8T cylinder heads or other engines can be found in our engine building guide blog section.

• Blocks – there are two styles of 1.8T engine blocks, 058 and 06A.

• 058 blocks are found in vehicles produced from the beginning of production until year 2000.5.

• Model years 2000.5 and newer use 06A block.

• Model year 2000 was a split production year so both 06A and 058 blocks are found in that year.

• 058 blocks have an internal intermediate shaft that that drives the oil pump and use an external water pump driven by an accessory belt.

• 058 blocks are only found in the early longitudinal Audi B5 A4 and VW B5 Passat.

• 06A blocks do not have an intermediate shaft and use a water pump driven by the timing belt. The oil pump is chain driven by the oil pump drive gear located on the snout of the crankshaft.

Watch the video below for more information on how to identify you 1.8T block type:

Mains Caps & Bearings

Like most other VAG 4 cylinder engines, the 1.8T uses 5 two-bolt main caps. There are 4 outer main caps and one center main cap that contains crankshaft thrust bearings (also commonly called thrust washers). The stock main caps are cast iron and can be upgraded to IE's billet steel versions as power output increases.

The block side of the main caps have M10 threads but the lengths between 06A and 058 vary as noted below:

• 06A main bolts - M10x80mm
  Manufacturers Part Number: N90130001
  IE Part Number: OEM-18T-MAIN06A

• 058 main bolts - M10x65mm (commonly used in engine codes AEB or ATW)
  Manufacturers Part Number: N10263801
  IE Part Number: OEM-18T-MAIN058

• Thrust bearings (used in all 1.8T engines)
  Manufacturers Part Numbers: 026198421 / 026105635A
  IE Part Number: OEM-18T-THRUST

Crankshaft

All 1.8T stock cranks have a stroke of 86.4mm.  Cranks found in the 06A can be found forged or cast iron. Most 058 crankshafts are cast iron. The timing belt drive gear and crankshaft damper is attached via a 4 bolt interface. Also on the crankshaft is the trigger wheel which is used in part with the crank sensor to determine engine RPM.

• 06A blocks use a slotted style trigger wheel.

• 058 blocks use a dented style trigger wheel.

Rods & Bearings

All 1.8T connecting rods measure 144mm on the center-to-center dimension and have a big-end journal width of 24.90mm. With the common measurements out of the way, that leaves the wrist pin size, which vary depending on engine codes.

• Most 06A 1.8T engines employ a 19mm wrist pin (225 horsepower models use 20mm).

• 058 1.8T engines typically use a 20mm wrist pin.

Pistons

Some 1.8T pistons are cast rather than forged, which results in a fairly weak piston. Some engine codes did have forged pistons but they are not designed for high power levels, and still not as robust as forged aftermarket pistons.

• All stock 1.8T pistons have a bore size of 81mm.

• Factory published compression ratios tend to vary but from our experience actual compression ratios range from 9.25:1 to 9.3:1.

This section will be separated by different horsepower levels. Our goal is to point you in the right direction and make your build a success.

300HP+ Connecting Rod & Piston Upgrades

At 300+ hp we often recommend using a set of IE connecting rods with stock pistons. This proven combination works fine as long as the piston skirts and cylinder walls are in good shape. In high mileage or worn blocks,  larger bore aftermarket pistons should be used so piston-to-wall clearances can be set correctly. It is fairly common knowledge at this point that 1.8T connecting rods are the weak point in the bottom end, since they were designed for only 150-225HP depending on the model.

Two main factory connecting rod weaknesses:

• Very narrow beam design that leads to bent rods under increased torque.

• Inferior metals (stock rods are usually made from sintered iron) compared to aftermarket forged rods.  These weak alloys lead to broken connecting rod beams.

There are two possible solutions if you are planning on using upgraded rods with stock pistons connecting rod options:

• 06A blocks will typically require 144x19mm connecting rods that have a tapered wrist pin (with the exception of 225hp engines). There are many engine codes that accept these rods with stock pistons. (availabe with rifle drilling)
  IE part numbers: IERHVA2, IERHVA2-RD

•  058 blocks or other high-output (225 HP) 1.8T engines will typically require 144x20mm connecting rods to be used stock pistons.  Common engine codes that use 20mm wrist pins are AEB, AGU, AMK, AMU, APX, ATC, ATW, AWD, AYP, and BEA. (available with rifle drilling)
  IE part numbers IERHVA1, IERHVA1-RD

Connecting Rod Rifle Drilling

Rifle drilling is an oiling hole that travels the length of the connecting rod beam from the big end to the small end of the connecting rod. Additional pin oiling has been shown to greatly extend bushing life on daily driven or high mileage applications.

300HP+ Engine Hardware

At these power levels the stock hardware, such as main bolts, are adequate. One important fact that enthusiasts often overlook however is that many stock bolts are stretch bolts and thus are one-time use only.  Stated another way, once the bolts are removed from your engine, they must be replaced with new/unused units.

Common OE bottom end hardware that are one time use and should be replaced are:

• Head bolts (10)
  06A IE Part Number: OEM-18T-HBSET06A
  058 IE Part Number; OEM-18T-HBSET058

• Main studs (10)
  06A IE Part Number: OEM-18T-MAIN06A
  058 IE Part Number: OEM-18T-MAIN058

• Flywheel bolts (6)

• Crank damper bolt (1)
  06A IE Part Number: OEM-18T-CRANKBOLT06A
  058 IE Part Number: OEM-18T-CRANKBOLT058

• Crank damper pulley to timing gear bolts (4)

400-500HP Connecting Rod Upgrades

To ensure reliable operation at power levels exceeding 400HP upgrading to aftermarket pistons and rods is absolutely necessary.  All 1.8T aftermarket piston & rod combinations offered by IE use a non-tapered 144x20mm connecting rod with a matching 20mm aftermarket piston.

• H-beam 144x20- Proven strong and reliable
  IE Part Number: IERHVA1

• H-Beam 144x20 rifle drilled- strong and reliable with added wrist pin longevity from rifle drilling
  IE Part Number: IERHVA1-RD

• Tuscan I-beam 144x20- our highest quality connecting rod: strong and reliable, superior strength-to-weight ratio, included rifle drilling for wrist pin longevity
  IE Part Number: IERTVA1

400-500HP Piston Upgrades

• Mahle pistons- a great option for street builds and daily drivers, quiet piston operation, tight piston-to-wall clearances due to low expansion alloy. Explore pistons

• JE pistons- a great option for street or track use, uses a tough 2618 alloy piston forging, with tons of compression ratios and bore sizes available. Explore pistons

• Wiseco pistons- a great option for street or track use, affordable yet good quality, uses a tough 2618 alloy piston forging. Explore pistons

400-500HP Crankshaft Timing Gear Interface

The 1.8T timing belt system is a major weak point. The most common failure point is the timing gear located on the snout of the crankshaft. As a solution, we have developed a crankshaft timing gear that is far stronger than the original unit and also an ARP crank bolt that increases the amount of force holding the gear on.

For 06A applications, we offer a press-fit timing gear along with an IE Spec ARP crank bolt.

• IE 06A 4 bolt billet press-fit timing gear
  IE Part Number: IEBEVA17

• IE 06A/06F 6 bolt billet press-fit timing gear (For customers upgrading to a 6 bolt timing gear and crank damper pulley)
  IE Part Number: IEBEVC8

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt is also reusable and does not need to be replaced)
  IE Part Number: ARP-06A-01
  

For 058 applications, we offer a dowel-pinned OEM timing gear, along with an IE Spec ARP crank bolt.

• IE dowel pin kit (This kit allows you to drill and ream a hole in the end of the crankshaft, which allows a hardened steel pin to be installed)
  IE Part Number: IEBEVA6

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt increases clamping force on the timing gear and is reusable)
  IE Part Number: ARP-058-01

400-500HP Engine Bearings

We highly recommend using a performance main bearing and rod bearing as power levels increase. The main advantage of performance bearings is due to a tri-metal composition they are able to withstand added bearing loads and are better suited to withstand crankshaft flex.

• Mahle Motorsport main bearings
  IE Part Number: MAH-VM1028

• Mahle Motorsport rod bearings
  IE Part Number: MAH-VC1027

• Standard OE replacement thrust bearings
  IE Part Number: OEM-18T-THRUST

400-500HP Engine Hardware

At this power level, the stock hardware is typically sufficient as long as it is never reused. If you plan on pushing the car further in the future you may want to consider to upgrading to ARP engine hardware. As an added bonus, ARP hardware is reusable and does not need to be replaced if removed.

1.8T 06A ARP Hardware:

• Main Stud Kit (Requires main cap align hone)
  IE Part Number: ARP-CVA3

• Head Bolt Kit
  IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-3901 (kit only) ARP-204-3902 (with install tool)

• Head Stud Kit
  IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-4103 (kit only) ARP-204-4104 (with install tool)

• IE Spec Crank Bolt
  IE Part Number: ARP-06A-01

• Flywheel bolts
  IE Part Number: ARP-VWFLYWHEELBOLT

1.8T 058 ARP Hardware:

• Main Stud Kit (Requires main cap align hone)
  IE Part Number: ARP-204-5402

• Head Stud Kit
  IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-4101 (kit only) ARP-204-4102 (with install tool)

• IE Spec Crank Bolt
  IE Part Number: ARP-058-01

• Flywheel bolts
  IE Part Number: ARP-VWFLYWHEELBOLT

Also, be sure to check out our complete ARP hardware kits for 06A and 058 engines.

400-500HP Main Cap Upgrades

The stock main caps are cast and lack the rigidity required for a reliable high powered build. As an upgrade we offer billet steel main caps that are far more rigid and will help to reduce main bearing wear. Be sure to check that your machine shop can align bore and hone mains before ordering.

• IE 06A/058 1.8T cylinder billet main caps
  IE Part Number: IEBEVA1

500HP+ Connecting Rod Upgrades

• • H-beam 144x20- Proven strong and reliable
    IE Part Number: IERHVA1

  • H-Beam 144x20 rifle drilled- strong and reliable with added wrist pin longevity from rifle drilling
    IE Part Number: IERHVA1-RD

  • Tuscan I-beam 144x20- our highest quality connecting rod: strong and reliable, superior strength-to-weight ratio, included rifle drilling for wrist pin longevity
    IE Part Number: IERTVA1

500HP+ Piston Upgrades

• Mahle pistons - standard Mahle shelf pistons unfortunately come with fairly weak wrist pins in most 1.8T applications. At this power level, you should consider using our 1.8T Mahle Stroker custom pistons, which include a very stout wrist pin. Explore pistons

• JE pistons -a great option for street or track use, manufactured from tough 2618 alloy piston forgings. Tons of compression ratios and bore sizes available. Explore pistons

JE 1.8T Custom Spec Pistons

Integrated Engineering knows these motors inside and out, we can help determine the custom specifications to design the exact piston to meet your project's goals. Contact sales@performancebyie.com to order custom spec pistons

• Any bore, compression ratio, and several crankshaft strokes available.

• Thermal dome coating - reflects heat away from the piston. Commonly used in high HP turbo builds or nitrous applications.

• Anti-friction skirt coating -  Commonly used in endurance applications to increase piston skirt longevity.

• Oil-shed coating - used to minimize rotating assembly weight, generally in high RPM naturally aspirated applications.

• Upgraded wrist pins - options range from small and lightweight to stout and strong for turbo high HP turbo builds.

• Lateral gas ports - ensures superior piston ring seal by increasing gas pressure behind the rings. Only recommend for race use as lateral gas ports generally become clogged quickly and wear rings quickly in street applications.

500HP+ Crankshaft Options

Some stock 1.8T crankshafts are made from cast iron. At a certain point, it is a good idea to upgrade to a forged crankshaft. For that reason, many serious 1.8T builds use a forged 2.0L crank to convert the 1.8L block into a 2008cc 2.0L stroker engine. (Requires stroker pistons)

• 2.0T FSI 92.8mm Stroker Crankshaft -This factory forged 2.0 FSI crankshaft is modified with a special IE oil pump drive gear which makes it a drop in 2008cc crankshaft for 06A blocks.
  IE Part Number: IESKVA6

500HP+ Crank Damper Options

At this power level using a crankshaft damper such as Fluidampr can increase main bearing life by absorbing crankshaft vibrations. We generally recommend one of the two following options. 06A block only

• 4 bolt Fluidampr crankshaft damper
  IE Part Number: FD-551201 + 4 bolt IE press fit gear IE Part Number: IEBEVA17

If you do not already own any 4 bolt components we would recommend using the following 6 bolt components for added security at no extra cost.

• 6 bolt Fluidampr crankshaft damper
  IE Part Number: FD-551211 + 6 bolt IE press fit gear IE Part Number: IEBEVC8

500HP+ Main Caps & Girdle Plate Upgrades

At this point the main caps should be upgraded at minimum to prevent excessive main bearing wear. As power levels increase you should consider using billet main caps and a main bearing girdle kit.

• IE 06A standard main caps & IE girdle kit - Standard main caps are the simpler solution as they use spacers on the top of main caps. The spacers are then machined to form a level oil pan surface that the girdle plate will sit on.
  IE Part Number: IEBEVA9

• IE 06A tallboy main caps & IE girdle kit - Tallboy main caps, an Integrated Engineering innovation, require complex machining to be installed installed. Instead of using spacers on top of the main caps, the main caps stand proud of the deck and then must be machined flat. In the end they are the better solution as they provide a more stable, and flat, mounting surface for the girdle plate.
  IE Part Number: IEBEVA13

• IE 058 standard main caps & IE girdle kit - Standard main caps are the simpler solution as they use spacers on the top of main caps. The spacers are then machined to form a level oil pan surface that the girdle plate will sit on.
  IE Part Number: IEBEVA12

• IE 058 tallboy main caps & IE girdle kit - Tallboy main caps, an Integrated Engineering innovation, require complex machining to be installed installed. Instead of using spacers on top of the main caps, the main caps stand proud of the deck and then must be machined flat. In the end they are the better solution as they provide a more stable, and flat, mounting surface for the girdle plate.
  IE Part Number: IEBEVA14

500HP+ Crankshaft Timing Gear Interface

 The 1.8T timing belt system is a major weak point. The most common failure point is the timing gear located on the snout of the crankshaft. As a solution we have developed a crankshaft timing gear that is far stronger than the original unit and also an ARP crank bolt that increases the amount of force holding the gear on.

For 06A applications, we offer a press-fit timing gear along with an IE Spec ARP crank bolt.

• IE 06A 4 bolt billet press-fit timing gear
  IE Part Number: IEBEVA17

• IE 06A/06F 6 bolt billet press-fit timing gear (For customers upgrading to a 6 bolt timing gear and crank damper pulley)
  IE Part Number: IEBEVC8

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt is also reusable and does not need to be replaced)
  IE Part Number: ARP-06A-01
  

For 058 applications, we offer a dowel-pinned OEM timing gear, along with an IE Spec ARP crank bolt.

• IE dowel pin kit (This kit allows you to drill and ream a hole in the end of the crankshaft, which allows a hardened steel pin to be installed)
  IE Part Number: IEBEVA6

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt increases clamping force on the timing gear and is reusable)
  IE Part Number: ARP-058-01

500HP+ Wrist Pin Upgrades

Why did we create a section just about wrist pins? We have seen endless builds fail due to under spec’d wrist pins. Many piston manufacturers use a lighter spec pin that works for lower horsepower builds, however with higher HP levels and raised cylinder pressures you need a stronger wrist pin. For any build using JE pistons, we recommend upgrading to the tool steel wrist pins. Be sure to always check the material specifications and wrist pin wall thickness to avoid any pin failures!

500HP+ Engine Bearings

We highly recommend using a performance main bearing and rod bearing as power levels increase. The main advantage of performance bearings is due to a tri-metal composition they are able to withstand added bearing loads and are better suited to withstand crankshaft flex.

• Mahle Motorsport main bearings
  IE Part Number: MAH-VM1028

• Mahle Motorsport rod bearings
  IE Part Number: MAH-VC102

• Standard OE replacement thrust bearings
  IE Part Number: OEM-18T-THRUST

500HP+ Engine Hardware

At this power level, the stock hardware is no longer sufficient. With the increased levels of load, it is very highly recommended to upgrade to ARP engine hardware. As an added bonus, ARP hardware is reusable and does not need to be replaced if removed.

1.8T 06A ARP Hardware:

• Main Stud Kit (Requires main cap align hone)
  IE Part Number: ARP-CVA3

• Head Bolt Kit
  IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-3901 (kit only) ARP-204-3902 (with install tool)

• Head Stud Kit
  IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-4103 (kit only) ARP-204-4104 (with install tool)

• IE Spec Crank Bolt
  IE Part Number: ARP-06A-01

• Flywheel bolts
  IE Part Number: ARP-VWFLYWHEELBOLT

1.8T 058 ARP Hardware:

• Main Stud Kit (Requires main cap align hone)
  IE Part Number: ARP-204-5402

• Head Stud Kit
  IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-4101 (kit only) ARP-204-4102 (with install tool)

• IE Spec Crank Bolt
  IE Part Number: ARP-058-01

• Flywheel bolts
  IE Part Number: ARP-VWFLYWHEELBOLT

Also, be sure to check out our complete ARP hardware kits for 06A and 058 engines.

This concludes our overview on building a 1.8T 20V bottom end. If you have any further questions, please contact us or leave a comment below. Thanks for reading!

Style Meets Power: Nik Preusser’s Bagged  MK6 Jetta SportWagen with IE 2.5L Power Kit

Nik’s story is bound to resonate with many that have served a large portion of their lives in the Armed Forces. Throughout his Air Force life he lived in several countries including Turkey, Portugal, Guam, various regions of the Middle East, Japan, and several states in the USA.

After 7 years of active duty service as an air traffic controller, a career with the Federal Aviation Administration was pursued. This career has kept Nik busy, but it has also allowed him to support several hobbies that include cars, photography, and of course his family.

His first car was a 1988 Chevy Caprice, that as he puts it, “was about 10 different colors of gray, had a faulty power steering system (which wasn’t much fun when driving something that compares to a land yacht), caught on fire twice, and typically didn’t start”. It wasn’t until living in Japan, and the release of The Fast and the Furious movie, that he started to think about what other car possibilities may be out there.

A few months later, Nik purchased a Honda Prelude that eventually received the “full ricer treatment”. You name it, this car had it: underglows, interior neons, large Enkei wheels, an eardrum-popping sound system, and a full exhaust system with a giant “fart can” muffler.

Later on in Japan, at age 19, he purchased a 1991 Nissan Skyline GTS-T HCR32 which received a much more tasteful list of mods. These mods included: HKS coilovers, a full turbo-back Dart-Izumi exhaust, front mount intercooler, intake, boost controller, upgraded injectors and fuel pump, OS Giken twin-plate clutch, and a tune.

One interesting observation that we have made at IE from our customer spotlight series is that the influence of Fast and Furious has been monumental. Yes, the fact that you can shift 12 times during a ¼ mile race is ridiculous, but it truly converted a lot of young kids into car guys. We think that’s pretty cool result from technically way-off-base movies.

In 2013 Nik decided to purchase a MK6 Jetta SportWagen due to its good looks and overall utilitarian purpose. Like many 2.5L owners, he loved the exhaust note and engine noise the best.

With a newborn son and growing family, he and his wife also needed something with some space (no hatchback allowed in this case). While fairly docile at first, these engines respond quite positively to an improved intake and exhaust system.

It took Nik quite a while to find the SportWagen he wanted (Platinum Grey, 2.5L, and manual transmission) and eventually had one trucked from California to Utah.

Within a couple months of owning it, car parts starting showing up on his doorstep. One of those items were AirLift and Accuair air ride suspension components. Nik commented that, “Choosing to add air ride suspension was largely a result of my wife being pregnant. I had heard that they offered a more comfortable ride than most coilovers, which was important to us at the time. It was also a major bonus that it looked cool”.  While he did add a lot of parts to make the car look better, the car is far from a dedicated show car. It’s primary use is a family hauler and a commuter. Although it’s not their only car, it gets driven every day—rain or shine (or a few inches of Utah snow).

IE came to know Nik when he decided it was time to add more power to his 2.5L. He already had the style aspect of the car well covered, but the car needed more get up and go. We then introduced Nik to our 2.5L Power Kit that fits MK5 and MK6 2.5L 5 cylinder cars with the electric power steering pump. The kit has proven to add gains in excess of 45 horsepower and torque on most applications, and is also a great aesthetic upgrade.

The 2.5L Power Kit includes the IE 2.5L Short Runner Intake Manifold, in-house developed IE Software, and an IE Direct Fit Air Intake. The kit was designed with a budget in mind, and in our opinion, delivers a great bang for the buck. It’s the only complete kit on the market that delivers the best horsepower to dollars ratio. Since Nik is a local customer as well, he received the added benefit of a custom tune on IE’s dyno.

The power numbers of Nik’s ride were fairly impressive considering it’s only naturally aspirated (not turbocharged). The following power charts are from our in-house Dynapack Hub Dyno:

After installation Nik reflected on the kit, “The Integrated Engineering 2.5L Power Kit far exceeded my expectations. The engine bay looks so much nicer and the car is a blast to drive. I didn’t expect to ever really enjoy driving the JSW, but I love driving it now. It sounds so nice and the added power makes the car much more responsive”.

The future plans for his JSW include the aesthetic mods of projector headlights, LED taillights, and some interior work (GTI seats, steering wheel, and so on).

On the performance side: an IE Dogbone Insert and IE Catch Can Kit will be installed, and possibly down the road a high compression bottom end build or even some forced induction. IE will certainly be here to help Nik with his performance needs.

During the course of the build Nik also took advantage of the military discount that IE offers. While it’s only a small discount, he was appreciative that IE supports the armed forces.

Be sure to keep an eye out for Nik and his ride along the Wasatch Front this summer!  He’ll be attending several meet and greets with his stylish and now substantially quicker JSW.

Engine/Performance:

• Integrated Engineering 2.5L Intake Manifold – Black Finish
• Integrated Engineering 2.5L Air Intake Kit for IE Intake Manifold
• Integrated Engineering In-house Dyno Tune
• Integrated Engineering Billet Fuel Rail – Red Anodized
• Integrated Engineering Billet Valve Cover– Red Anodized
• AWE Tuning Track Edition Exhaust - Polished
• VW OEM Plastic Battery Cover (swapped from cloth box)
• Porsche 911 OEM Oil Cap
• Porsche 911 OEM Expansion Tank Cap
• Bremmen Washer Fluid Cap – Black

Exterior & Style Mods:

• VW OEM Zubehör Golf Votex Front Valance
• VW OEM Zubehör Golf Votex Side Skirts
• VW OEM Zubehör Jetta Sportwagen Votex Rear Valance
• VW OEM Zubehör Jetta Sportwagen Left-Exit Diffuser
• Cleared Front Corner Lights
• BBS CH wheels - 18x8.5+35 –Custom Powdercoated Bronze

Suspension:

• AirLift Performance Series Front Struts with Camber Plates
• AirLift Double-Bellow Slam Series Rear Bags
• AirLift Slam Series Rear Shocks
• AirLift Shortened Front Sway Bar End-links
• IDF Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms
• Accuair VU4 Manifold
• Accuair E-Level ECU
• Accuair E-Level Rocker Switch
• Accuair iLevel WiFi Module/Controller
• VIAIR Dual 444c Compressors
• Airlift 4-Gallon Air Tank – Polished

Interior:

• OEM VW RNS-315 Touchscreen Navigation (swapped from RCD-310)
• OEM VW GTI Interior (front and rear seats with door cards)
• Broadway Rearview Mirror

Bonus video coverage that Nik produced himself:

Prevent catastrophic engine failure, boost loss, and poor economy on your VW/Audi 2.0T FSI engine with our easy to install and affordable ($99) IE PCV Solution Kit.
Check out the short video below to learn more.

Get your own IE PCV Solution Kit HERE

Integrated Engineering MK7/MQB TSI GEN 3 FDS Intercooler Install: Part Number - IETPCI1

Thank you for purchasing another high quality Integrated Engineering product! This instruction guide is used for installation of the Integrated Engineering FDS Intercooler Kit for MQB applications. This kit needs to be installed by a professional or an experienced technician. Integrated Engineering is not responsible for any damage caused by incorrect installation.

Kit Contents:

• (1) IE FDS Intercooler
• (1) Passenger side silicone hose
• (1) Driver side silicone hose
• (2) Hose clamps (60-80mm)
• (1) Brass plug for water-meth port
• (2) Service position bolts

INSTALL PROCESS:

To begin, open the IE FDS Intercooler Kit and inspect all components, and verify their quantities. Park your car on level surface and apply the parking brake or rack your car on a auto lift. It is also recommended to allow the car to cool before beginning this install procedure.

Remove both front wheels as you will need access to the fender liners in order to remove the front bumper.

Remove the belly pan by removing the T25 torx screws that secures it in place.

Remove the T25 torx screw from the underside of the bumper that secures it to the radiator support.

Remove the T25 torx screws in the wheel well that secure the front bumper. You can now remove the lower wheel liners.

Be sure to remove the torx located under the fender liner towards the top of the bumper. Repeat on both sides.

Remove the headlight washer fluid line (located on the passenger side of LHD cars) by squeezing the blue tabs on the fitting.

Remove the T25 torx screws on the top of the grill. Once they are removed, pull forward slightly and then lift straight up to remove the grill.

Remove three T30 torx screw in the center to release the bumper from the radiator support bracket.

The front bumper can now be removed by pulling on the outer top edge. Use caution during this step to not break the plastic clips that fasten the bumper. If you car has parking sensors, those will need to be disconnected in this step also.

Disconnect the hood release cable link (follow the photos below).

Remove the 3 T25 torx screws and remove the upper headlight bracket, repeat on both sides.

Remove the T30 torx screw securing the outside of headlight to the bumper bracket. Repeat on both sides.

Remove the two T30 torx screws from the engine bay side of the headlight. Disconnect the headlight connectors. You can now remove both headlights.

Remove stock air box or aftermarket intake from the engine bay. In this case we removed the IE MK7 MQB intake.

You will also need to remove three clips (one on top, two on bottom) that fasten the plastic air guides that bolt to both sides of the radiator support.

To fully remove the bumper support bracket, remove the two T30 torx screws remaining on the outside of the support. Release the two push tabs on the inside of the support. Be careful when removing to not break plastic components on the bumper support bracket.

Remove both intercooler charge pipes. Use a 7mm socket to loosen the hose clamps.

Drain coolant by removing lower radiator hose. Remove the spring clip and pull the hose away from the radiator outlet.

Detach upper radiator hose by removing the spring clip and pull the hose away from the radiator.

Remove the three connectors from the radiator support. There are two yellow connectors and one black connector located at the top of the radiator support. Be sure there are no electrical connectors still attached to the radiator support.

Remove three of the four 16mm bolts that attach the crash beam to the frame rails. Repeat on both sides. Thread the included support bolts in by hand into outside bottom corners of the frame rails on both side.

Remove the final 16mm bolt securing crash beam to the frame horns.The radiator support will now tilt forward into service position.

Remove the two T30 screws securing the coolant pipe located in front of the intake manifold to the radiator fan.

Next, remove the cooling fan connector.

Press locking tab on the radiator fan and pull up to remove.

Release intercooler mounting tabs from front of car. The AC condenser, intercooler, and radiator will now be able to slide back out of the core support.

Press down on the radiator securing tabs from the top of the intercooler with a flat head screwdriver and pull the radiator away from the IC. You can now remove the radiator.

Remove the two air guides from the front of the condenser. Remove these by releasing the tab located on the bottom.

Depress the tab on the intercooler end tank and pull up on the condenser. Leave the condenser in radiator support and carefully remove the intercooler by lowering it from the car.  Set aside the stock intercooler.

Remove the two intercooler mount brackets from the side of the stock intercooler, and re-install them in the same orientation onto the IE intercooler.

The IE FDS Intercooler can now be installed. Remove the protective cardboard and intercooler inlet/outlet plastic covers and install the plastic mounts onto the end tanks. Install the water-meth plug into the intercooler or your water-meth nozzle if you have one.

Lift the intercooler from the bottom of the car into place and ensure the locating tabs on the bottom of the intercooler are inserted into the rubber grommets. Install the four set screws that mount the condenser to the intercooler. You may have to tap the condenser tabs into the slots on the front of the FDS intercooler.

Now that the FDS intercooler has been installed, begin reassembling the car by following the reverse of the procedure detailed above. You will need to reassemble the car completely with the exception of installing the belly pan. Before installing the belly pan, the intercooler hoses will be installed.

Install the passenger side silicone hose. You will reuse the factory clamp on the plastic barb side. On the intercooler side use one of 60-80mm silicone hose clamps. It may be helpful to use carb cleaner or similar as lubricant during the install. Tighten both clamps firmly.

Install the driver side silicone hose. You will reuse the factory clamp on the plastic barb side. On the intercooler side, the other 60-80mm silicone hose clamp will be used.  Tighten both clamps firmly.

After installing both hoses you can now reinstall the belly pan.

Fill the engine cooling system with proper mix of factory-specified coolant, then bleed off any air trapped in the cooling system.

Start the car and confirm that none of the coolant connections are leaking.

Thank you for purchasing another Integrated Engineering product. We are dedicated to serving your VW/Audi engine and performance needs. Please check our website frequently for new product releases. If you have any questions or concerns about this product please do not hesitate to contact us.

CONTACT:

Integrated Engineering
801.484.2021
sales@performancebyie.com
www.performancebyie.com

INSTALL GUIDE

IEDTCG1 Dogbone Bushing Insert Kit For Audi B8 & B9 Chassis

Thank you for purchasing another high quality Integrated Engineering product! This instruction guide is used for installation of the Integrated Engineering TruFIT Dogbone Mount Insert for Audi B8/B8.5 and B9 applications. This kit needs to be installed by a professional or an experienced technician. Integrated Engineering is not responsible for any damage caused by incorrect installation.

Kit Contents:

• (1) IE TruFIT Dogbone Insert

• (2) Insert Spacers

Required Tools:

• #10 Triple Square Socket

• Socket Wrench

Step 1.

Open the IE TruFIT Dogbone Insert Kit, inspect all components, and verify part quantities.

Step 2.

Put your car on jack stands or on an automotive lift and identify the dogbone mount bushing located on the subframe.

Step 3.

Remove the two #10 triple square bolts and support bracket from the dogbone bushing.  Place these off to the side as they will be re-installed.

Step 4.

Apply silicone spray liberally to the new mount insert AND the stock rubber mount. Line up the dogbone insert with the dogbone bushing and press it in by hand.

Step 5.

Place the two small insert spacers on the inside of the new mount insert.

Step 6.

Replace the dogbone support bracket on the underside of the new mount insert and reinstall the dogbone bushing triple square bolts. Torque the bolts to 15 ft/lbs.

Thank you for purchasing another Integrated Engineering product. We are dedicated to serving your VW/Audi engine and performance needs. Please check our website frequently for new product releases. If you have any questions or concerns about this product please do not hesitate to contact us.

Integrated Engineering

801.484.2021

sales@performancebyie.com

INSTALL GUIDE

IEDTCI1 & IEDTCI2 Dogbone Insert Kit For MK7 & MQB Chassis

Thank you for purchasing another high quality Integrated Engineering product! This instruction guide is used for installation of the Integrated Engineering TruFIT Dogbone Mount Insert for Audi & VW MK7 and MQB applications. This kit needs to be installed by a professional or an experienced technician. Integrated Engineering is not responsible for any damage caused by incorrect installation.

Kit Contents:

• (1) IE TruFIT Dogbone Insert

• (2) Insert Base

Required Tools:

• 21mm Socket

• Socket Wrench

 Step 1.

Open the IE TruFIT Dogbone Insert Kit, inspect all components, and verify part quantities.

 Step 2.

Put your car on jack stands or on an automotive lift and identify the dogbone mount bushing located on the subframe.

 Step 3.

Remove the 21mm bushing center bolt and place it off to the side as it will be re-installed.

 Step 4.

Apply silicone spray liberally to the new mount insert AND the stock rubber mount. Line up the dogbone insert with the dogbone bushing and press it in by hand.

 Step 5.

Place the insert base on the underside of the new mount insert.

 Step 6.

Reinstall the dogbone bushing center bolt. Torque the bolt to 74 ft/lbs.

Thank you for purchasing another Integrated Engineering product. We are dedicated to serving your VW/Audi engine and performance needs. Please check our website frequently for new product releases. If you have any questions or concerns about this product please do not hesitate to contact us:

Integrated Engineering

801.484.2021

sales@performancebyie.com

 IE is pleased to offer our 2016 Labor Day Sale!

Offers are good from September 2nd - September 9th, read below for a complete list of all sale items.

IE MK6 Golf R Performance Tunes - 549.99 Starting 494.99

IE MK2 TTS Performance Tunes - 549.99 Starting at 494.99

IE 2.5L 5 Cylinder Performance Tunes - 399.99 Starting at 359.99

MK6 TSI Intake W/O SAI - 349.99 299.99

MK6 TSI Intake W/SAI - 379.99 329.99

TTS MK2 Carbon Intake - 479.99 429.99

MK7/MQB Dogbone Insert (Version A) -  37.99 27.99

MK7/MQB Dogbone Insert (Version B) - 37.99 27.99

B8/B9 Audi TSI Dogbone Insert - 34.99 24.99

MK5, FSI, Dogbone Insert (Version A) - 34.99 24.99

MK6, TSI, Dogbone Insert (Version B) - 34.99 24.99

The Definitive Guide to building your VW 2.0T FSI Bottom End

Integrated Engineering’s complete guide to avoiding engine block failure

This engine is commonly referred to as the 2.0T FSI, TSI, and TFSI (EA113). The most important differentiating factor is that this engine is direct injected, has a timing belt, and not timing chains. Newer versions of the 2.0T (MK6 GTI, MK7 GTI, for example) have timing chains.

Popular Volkswagen and Audi models that have the 2.0T FSI engine are as follows:  

• Volkswagen MK5 GTI/GLI
• Volkswagen MK6 Golf R
• Audi B7 A4
• Audi MK2 TT & TTS
• Audi MK2 A3
• And  more

The purpose of this in-depth article is to educate you on the 2.0T FSI bottom end in stock form, how to upgrade it correctly to meet your performance goals, and what to show you what IE has to offer for your build. If you have any further questions please feel free to contact us or leave a comment below.

Engine Block

The most common part number prefix denoting the correct block is 06F. Most 2.0T blocks are interchangeable. However, there may be slight differences between blocks such as the thermostat housings. As a rule of thumb, the best way to ensure a hassle free build is to start with the same block code that your car originally came with.

Main Caps & Bearings

Like most VAG 4 cylinder engines, the 06F block uses 5 two-bolt main caps. There are 4 outer main caps and one center main cap that contains the crankshaft thrust bearings (also called thrust washers). Most stock main caps are cast iron and can be upgraded to IE’s billet steel main caps as power output increases (more on this upgrade later).

IE stock main bolt & thrust bearing part numbers:

• Main Bolts - M10x80mm (OEM PN: N90130001) IE PN: OEM-FSI-MAIN

• Thrust Bearings (OEM PN: 06A105637A) IE PN: OEM-FSI-THRUST

Crankshaft

• All 2.0T FSI stock cranks have a stroke of 92.8mm and are all forged.

• The timing belt drive gear is attached with one large bolt (crank bolt) and crankshaft damper is attached to it with a 6 bolt interface.

• Also on the crankshaft is the trigger wheel which is used in part with the crank position sensor to determine engine RPM. It is very important that the trigger wheel does not get bent, as that will affect the engine RPM pickup. If the trigger wheel is removed for any reason, it must be replaced (one-time use). The bolts that fasten the trigger wheel to the crankshaft are also one-time use.

• Most 2.0T FSI crankshafts are interchangeable except for B7 Audi A4 Quattro with automatic transmission.

Connecting Rods

• All 2.0T FSI connecting rods measure 144mm on the center-to-center dimension (length) and have a big-end journal width of 24.90mm. The journal width dimension is important because newer timing chain driven engines (2.0T TSI GEN 2/3) are narrower in this respect.
• Wrist pin diameters vary between engine codes and vary from 20mm to 23mm, depending on specific model. The most common wrist pin size for standard 2.0T FSI engines (MK5 GTI, for example) is 20mm.

• Most 2.0T FSI pistons are forged but are still not as robust as aftermarket forged pistons.
• The stock bore size of 2.0T FSI pistons are 82.5mm.
• Most pistons employ a 20mm wrist pin, except for higher output models which have 21mm or larger.
• The stock compression ratio varies from 9.5:1 to over 10.0 depending on engine code.

This section will be separated by different horsepower levels. Our goal is point you in the right direction to make your build a success.

 350+ HP/TQ Connecting Rod & Piston Upgrades

At this power level we recommend upgrading the connecting rods at a minimum. You can often maintain the stock pistons as long as the piston skirts and cylinder walls are in good shape. In high mileage blocks it may be a good idea to use over-sized pistons so the piston-to-wall clearances can be set correctly. However, replacing pistons and performing the required machine work can become expensive quickly.

It is certainly possible to surpass the 350 HP/TQ level on stock rods and pistons, but if longevity and reliability is of high importance to you, we do not recommend it for long period of time.

It is common knowledge that 2.0T FSI connecting rods are a weak point of this engine. That isn’t to say that they were designed poorly but very often cannot handle the added stresses introduced by larger turbos and aggressive ECU tunes.

Two main reasons for connecting rod failure:

• A very narrow beam design that leads to bent rods under high torque loads

• Stock rods have an inferior metal composition. They are typically made from sintered iron compared to far superior forged steel aftermarket rods.

There are two available “drop-in” connecting rod options for use with stock pistons on 2.0T standard output engines:

• Standard blocks will typically require 144x20mm connecting rods that have a tapered wrist pin. For high mileage applications, we recommend using rifle drilled connecting rods which promote wrist pin longevity. IE part numbers: IERHVC1, IERHVC1-RD

*NOTE - For special edition or high output engine models (models exceeding the 200HP & 207 lb-tq) you will commonly have to upgrade rods and pistons together as drop-in rods are not available for wrist pins larger than 20mm.

Connecting Rod Rifle Drilling

Rifle drilling is an oiling hole that travels the length of the connecting rod beam from the big end (crankshaft journal) to the small end (piston wrist pin) of the connecting rod. Additional pin oiling has been shown to greatly extend bushing life on daily driven or high mileage applications.

350+ HP/TQ Engine Hardware

At these power levels the stock hardware, such as main bolts and head bolts, are adequate.

One important fact that builders often overlook however is that many stock bolts are stretch bolts and can only be used once. In other words, once the bolts are removed from the engine, they must be replaced with new/unused units.

*Note - there are also several ARP performance engine hardware options available that are stronger and reusable. See the next power section for more details.

Common OE bottom end hardware that are one-time use and must be replaced are:

• Head bolts (10) (OEM PN: 06D103385D) IE PN: OEM-FSI-HBSET

• Main bolts (10) (OEM PN: N90130001) IE PN: OEM-FSI-MAIN

• Flywheel bolts (6) OEM PN: N90665001

• Crank damper bolt (1) OEM PN: WHT005322

• Crank damper pulley to timing gear bolts (6) OEM PN: N91143901

400-500HP/TQ Connecting Rod Upgrades

To ensure reliable operation at power levels exceeding 400HP we strongly recommend upgrading to Integrated Engineering connecting rods and aftermarket pistons. Most aftermarket 2.0T FSI pistons utilize a non-tapered 20mm wrist pin 144x20mm connecting rod.

• H-beam 144x20 - Proven strong and reliable IE PN: IERHVA1

• H-beam 144x20 rifle drilled - strong and reliable with added wrist pin longevity from rifle drilling IE PN: IERHVA1-RD

• Tuscan I-beam 144x20 - Our highest quality connecting rod, strong and reliable, superior strength to weight ratio, included rifle drilling for added wrist pin longevity IE PN: IERTVA1

400-500HP/TQ Piston Upgrades

• Mahle pistons - The best option for street builds and daily drivers, quiet piston operation, tight piston-to-wall clearances due to low expansion alloy.

• JE pistons - a great option for street or track use, uses a tough 2618 alloy piston forging, a huge amount of bore sizes and compression ratios are available. AVAILABLE HERE

400-500HP/TQ Crankshaft/Timing Gear Interface

The 2.0T FSI timing interface is a great improvement over prior generation 4 cylinder engines. The most common failure point still remains as the timing gear located on the snout of the crankshaft. If the stock gear fails, your engine will lose timing leading to an expensive repair. To rectify this problem, we have developed a far stronger replacement gear and also an ARP crank bolt that increases the amount of force securing the gear in place.

• IE 06F 6 bolt billet press-fit timing gear IE PN: IEBEVC8

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt is also reusable and does not need to be replaced) IE PN: ARP-06A-01

400-500HP/TQ Engine Bearings

We highly recommend using  performance main bearing and rod bearing as power levels increase. The main advantage of performance bearings is due to a tri-metal composition they are able to withstand added bearing loads and are better suited to withstand crankshaft flex.

• Mahle Motorsport Main Bearings IE PN: MAH-VM1028

• Mahle Motorsport Rod Bearings IE Part Number: MAH-VC1027

• Standard Thrust Bearings (OEM PN: 06A105637A) IE PN: OEM-FSI-THRUST

400-500HP/TQ Engine Hardware

At this power level, the stock hardware is typically sufficient as long as it is never reused. If you plan on pushing the car further in the future you may want to consider to upgrading to ARP engine hardware. As an added bonus, ARP hardware is reusable and does not need to be replaced if removed.

• Main Stud Kit (requires main cap align hone) IE PN: ARP-204-5408

• Head Stud Kit IE PN: ARP-204-4302

• IE/ARP Crank Bolt IE PN: ARP-06A-01

• Flywheel Bolts IE PN: ARP-VWFLYWHEELBOLT

Also, be sure to check out our complete ARP hardware kits for 2.0T FSI engines. AVAILABLE HERE

400-500HP/TQ Main Cap Upgrades

The stock main caps are often cast and lack the rigidity required for a reliable high powered build. As an upgrade we offer billet steel main caps that are far more rigid and will help to reduce main bearing wear. These are certainly not requirement at this power level, but may come in handy if you decide to push the engine farther in the future. Be sure to check that your machine shop can align bore and hone mains before ordering. Main cap machine work can also be very expensive.

• IE 4 CYL Billet Main Caps IE PN: IEBEVA1

500+ HP/TQ Connecting Rod Upgrades

• H-beam 144x20 - Proven strong and reliable IE PN: IERHVA1

• H-beam 144x20 rifle drilled - strong and reliable with added wrist pin longevity from rifle drilling IE PN: IERHVA1-RD

• Tuscan I-beam 144x20 - Our highest quality connecting rod, strong and reliable, superior strength to weight ratio, included rifle drilling for added wrist pin longevity IE PN: IERTVA1

500+ HP/TQ Piston Upgrades

• Mahle Pistons - recommended pistons for 500HP, however there are not many bore or compression ratio options.

• JE Pistons - a great option for street and track use, manufactured from tough 2618 alloy piston forgings. Tons of compression ratios and bore sizes available.

• JE 1.8T Custom Spec Pistons - Integrated Engineering knows these motors inside and out, we can help determine the custom specifications to design the exact piston to meet your project's goals. Contact sales@performancebyie.com to order custom spec pistons

  • Any bore, compression ratio, several crankshaft strokes available

  • Thermal dome coating - reflects heat away from the piston. Commonly used in high HP turbo builds or nitrous applications.

  • Anti-friction skirt coating -  Commonly used in endurance applications to increase piston skirt longevity.

  • Oil-shed coating - used to minimize rotating assembly weight, generally in high RPM naturally aspirated applications.

  • Upgraded wrist pins - options range from small and lightweight to stout and strong for turbo high HP turbo builds.

  • Lateral gas ports - ensures superior piston ring seal by increasing gas pressure behind the rings. Only recommend for race use as lateral gas ports generally become clogged quickly and wear rings quickly in street applications.

500+ HP/TQ Crank Damper Options

At this power level we highly suggest using an aftermarket crankshaft damper to increase main bearing life by absorbing crankshaft vibration. We recommend the following components to fortify this interface.

• Fluidampr crankshaft damper IE PN: FD 551201

• IE 06F 6 bolt billet press-fit timing gear IE PN: IEBEVC8

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt is also reusable and does not need to be replaced) IE PN: ARP-06A-01

500+ HP/TQ Main Caps & Girdle Plate Upgrades

At this point the main caps should be upgraded at minimum to prevent excessive main bearing wear.

Integrated Engineering does not recommend or sell main girdle kits on the 2.0T FSI engine for two main reasons. First, the installation requires significant fabrication making the install process a nightmare. Second, backdating the 2.0T oil pump to an 06A pump has been known to cause oil pressure issues due to the differences in oil check valve location.

With that said, the following main cap options are available:

• IE Standard 4 CYL Main Caps - Standard main caps are the simpler solution as they use spacers on the top of main caps. The spacers are then machined to form a level oil pan surface that the girdle plate will sit on. IE PN: IEBEVA1

• IE 4 CYL Tallboy Main Caps - For those who are planning on running another brand of crankshaft girdle, our tallboy main caps can be used as well. Rather than using spacers, these main caps are machined to be level with oil pan deck surface providing a more solid foundation than standard main caps and spacers. IE PN: IEBEVA3

500+ HP/TQ Wrist Pin Upgrades

Why did we create a section just about wrist pins? We have seen endless builds fail due to under spec’d wrist pins. Many piston manufacturers use a lighter spec pin that works for lower horsepower builds, however with higher HP levels and raised cylinder pressures you need a stronger wrist pin. For any build using JE pistons, we recommend upgrading to the tool steel wrist pins. Be sure to always check the material specifications and wrist pin wall thickness to avoid any pin failures!

500+ HP/TQ Engine Bearings

We highly recommend using a performance main bearing and rod bearing as power levels increase. The main advantage of performance bearings is due to a tri-metal composition they are able to withstand added bearing loads and are better suited to withstand crankshaft flex.

500+ HP/TQ Engine Hardware

At this power level, the stock hardware is no longer sufficient. With the increased levels of load, it is very highly recommended to upgrade to ARP engine hardware. As an added bonus, ARP hardware is reusable and does not need to be replaced if removed.

IE Assembled Short Blocks

Lastly, for those who do not have access to a high quality machine shop we would recommend checking out our assembled short blocks. Improper machine work can cost you a ton of money, even if the parts were perfect to begin with. AVAILABLE HERE 

This concludes our overview on building a 2.0T FSI bottom end. If you have any further questions, please contact us or leave a comment below. Good luck and thanks for reading!

IE Customer Spotlight with Noe Garcia's K04 MK6

Noe Garcia has been around the car scene in Salt Lake City for years. Everyone knows the white 2014 GTI from local European Facebook groups, meet and greets, and even the Rocky Mountain Raceway drag strip. He’s one of the founding members of High West Euro and actively attends several NUVW (Northern Utah VW) meets, regularly attends Car and Coffee by Sweet Country  and is always active on BurnAllTheMK6s Facebook group.

Noe wasn’t always a VW fan though. We were surprised to learn that he came from the JDM world with his first car being a 1996 Acura Integra GSR (which had a few bolts on and nitrous). Later down the road he had 2002 WRX and then a 9th generation civic. Noe explained, “I love Hondas, especially older ones because it’s like Legos. There are so many mix and match options that give you a lot of freedom to modify your car”.

When asked Noe he got into cars his response was one that is bound to resonate with many automotive enthusiasts. Noe Said “What got me into cars was the rush of going fast, freedom of the road, and seeing the fruits of labor after hours of wrenching with friends. We spent A LOT of our free time working on each others rides”.

It wasn’t until 2014 when he purchased his first VW. He purchased the MK6 GTI due to it’s combination of overall performance, DSG transmission, and upscale interior. Within 1 week of being new it was already starting to receive bolt-ons and stylizing upgrades.

The IE team had a chance to meet Noe at a company BBQ during the summer. He expressed his love for his GTI but wanted more power. After speaking with our sales team and engineers we had narrowed it down to either our up and coming TSI big turbo kit or a K04.

Noe added at the BBQ, “I really want something that offers a great power upgrade without the huge price tag of a big turbo kit”.

The IE K04 Build

Enter the K04 turbo upgrade. The K04 is genuine turbo manufactured by Borg Warner. It’s known in the VW scene as offering a nice upgrade over the stock K03 turbo, while still offering OEM reliability.

It is worth mentioning that one cannot simply buy a K04 from Borg Warner and Install it on MK6 GTI. To make the turbo plug-and-play like the IE kit, machine work and custom hoses are required. IE machines the compressor housing in our CNC machine shop to accept the diverter valve on the turbo.

Noe Agreed that the K04 based turbo kit, while putting out less power than IE’s big turbo kit, was still going to be a very quick car. It would also be far more affordable. For about $2800 in parts and IE K04 software the car should produce a nice bump in both horsepower and torque. A few other parts are also required such as an efficient intercooler and turbo back exhaust system. In Noe’s case he already them so that wasn’t a big deal.

Months later we got his car into the shop and started the install on his IE K04 kit. It also happened to be the first production IE K04 kit, serial number 001, if you will. The install was quick on the hardware side and took about 4 hours or so.

With the hardware all buttoned up we transferred his GTI from the lift to our chassis dyno. One perk of being a local customer to IE is that you get a custom dyno tune. Peter Blais, our lead engineer and software guru, spent the better parts of couple days dialing things in on the software side. Afterall, the software was going to be released in the near future as part of the IE K04 kit; so it had it be perfect. The end results were quite impressive from a relatively small turbo:

386 WHP @ 5542 RPM, 411 FT/LBS @ 4480 RPM on GT 260 PLUS 104 Octane

381 WHP @ 5250 RPM,  407 FT/LBS @ 4250 RPM on GT 260 100 Octane

362 WHP @ 5560 RPM , 392 FT/LBS @ 4450 RPM on 91 Octane Pump Fuel

The new K04 tune is as smooth as factory tune and can be driven aggressively or to the grocery store without issue.

Power comes on smooth and then rips the tires off when you’re least expecting it (Keep in mind it’s winter in Utah, so the car currently has snow tires equipped). There’s no throttle hesitation or any sort of weirdness of any kind. We expect our future customers to be extremely satisfied and we are proud to stand behind the product.

If we had any recommendations it would be to considering purchasing a sticky set of street tires and possibly a set of slicks or drag radials for the drag strip or race track. The addition of a limited slip differential would also help dramatically in putting the power down.  Those items will make a big difference at the track and will help put the power down. While burnouts may look cool the downside is you aren’t actually going anywhere fast!

Now it’s up to Noe to see what kind of times he can put down at the track!

Engine/Performance

• IE K04 Kit
• IE Custom K04 Tune
• IE Cold Air Intake (IEINCC2 - Available here) 
• R8 Coil Packs (Available here)
• NGK Plugs (Available here)
• APR Boost Tap (IE equivalent IEBAVC4 recommended - Available here)
• Spulen Catch Can Kit (IE equivalent IEBACC2 recommended - Available here)
• Go Fast Bits DV+ (Diverter Valve)
• SPM 3" Catless Turboback Exhaust with only 1 muffler and a resonator
• BSH Throttle Pipe
• Unitronic Intercooler (IE Equivalent IETPCB1 recommended - Available here)

Body/Visual

• Euro Golf R Front Bumper Conversion
• Badgeless R Grille
• Hood Notch Fill
• Votex Sideskirts
• 4D Carbon Fiber Wrap on Roof & Mirror Caps
• Ziza Euro R LED Tails
• Tinted Rear Side Markers
• IE Door Skirt Vinyl Decals

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels

• Koni STR.T Struts
• H&R Super Sport Springs
• 034 Motorsport Rear Sway Bar
• HPA Core Interlock Performance Motor Mount
• 18x8 ET48 Sparco Assetto Gara in Graphite Gray weighing 20.00lbs (winter)
• 225/45 18 Falken EuroWinter HS499 Tires (winter)
• 17x8 ET45 Advanti DST Storm S1 in Matte Black weighing 16.75lbs (summer)
• 235/45 17 Michelin PSS Tires (summer)
• ECS Crossed & Drilled Rotors & OE Calipers

Interior

• New South Boost Gauge
• JL Audio StealthBox
• Alpine PDX-M6 Amplifier with custom setup (Photo Attached)

Would you like to have your ride featured in an IE Customer Spotlight? If so, email us at spotlight@performancebyie.com for more details!

IE Engine Internals For VW & Audi MQB MK7 2.0T GEN 3

Bullet proof your engine!

Integrated Engineering is proud to release several MQB/MK7 2.0T engine internal components to our Volkswagen and Audi customers around the world. These internals are designed to hold the highest power levels and beyond  produced from the latest generation 2.0T EA888 GEN 3 engines. This release includes the internal parts of IE Spec Mahle Motorsport Pistons, IE H-beam and Tuscan I-beam Connecting Rods, Mahle Motorsport Rod Bearings, IE Valve Spring and Retainer Kits, IE Valve Guides, and ARP Head Studs. All prices are listed in USD.

A summary of available GEN 3 engine parts are listed below:

GEN 3 Connecting Rods

• Tuscan I-beam Connecting Rod Set - IE’s most premium connecting rod offering, part number IERTVN1, $649.99. SHOP NOW

• H-beam with rifle drilling 144x22mm Connecting Rod Set - guaranteed to support 700HP, includes rifle drilling which we recommend for daily driven applications, part number IERHVN1-RD, $549.99. SHOP NOW

• H-beam Connecting Rods Set - guaranteed to support 700HP, the workhorse of our rod lineup, part number IERHVN1, $449.99. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 IE Valve Spring & Titanium Retainer Kit

• IE Valve Spring and Titanium Retainer Kit - USA wound springs and titanium retainers made in-house, rated for 8500 RPM, part number IEVTVN2, $549.99. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 IE Performance Valve Guides

• IE Valve Guides - Made in-house from a proprietary heat dispersing alloy, part number IEVTVN1, $9.95 each. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 IE Spec Mahle Pistons

• IE/Mahle stock bore pistons - 82.5mm Bore, 9.3:1 CR, part number MAH-PVN1, $899.99. SHOP NOW

• IE/Mahle stock bore pistons - 83mm Bore, 9.3:1 CR, part number MAH-PVN2, $899.99. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 Connecting Rod Bearings

• Mahle/VanderVell 4 Cylinder Bearing Set - Perfect performance match when used with IE Connecting Rods, part number MAH-VC1027, $159.99. SHOP NOW

GEN 3 Head Studs

• ARP Head Stud Kit - ARP is the only name in the game when it comes to engine hardware. Affordable, totally re-useable, made in the USA.  Part Number ARP-CVN1, $151.99. SHOP NOW

Also coming soon from Integrated Engineering will be GEN 3 Sport Blocks. We currently offer these popular assembled short blocks for 2.0T FSI and 2.0T TSI platforms. Pricing is expected to be roughly $4500 for the GEN 3 version and should be released in summer 2016.

Stay tuned for more exciting MK7/MQB news from IE!

Guide to building your 1.8T 20V engine block

Integrated Engineering's complete guide to avoiding engine block failure

Popular Audi & VW Models that have the 1.8T (1995-2005)

• MK4 GTI
• MK4 Jetta GLI
• B6 A4
• B5 A4
• MK1 Audi TT
• And many more

This in-depth article will educate you on the 1.8T bottom end in stock form, how to upgrade it correctly to meet your performance goals, and what IE has to offer for your build. If you have any further questions feel free to contact us or leave a comment below.

If you’re looking to upgrade your 1.8T engine, you have come to the right place. Integrated Engineering (IE) offers a large product line spanning 1.8T engines to modern day platforms... Additional guides pertaining to 1.8T cylinder heads or other engines can be found in our engine building guide blog section.

• Blocks – there are two styles of 1.8T engine blocks, 058 and 06A.

• 058 blocks are found in vehicles produced from the beginning of production until year 2000.5.

• Model years 2000.5 and newer use 06A block.

• Model year 2000 was a split production year so both 06A and 058 blocks are found in that year.

• 058 blocks have an internal intermediate shaft that that drives the oil pump and use an external water pump driven by an accessory belt.

• 058 blocks are only found in the early longitudinal Audi B5 A4 and VW B5 Passat.

• 06A blocks do not have an intermediate shaft and use a water pump driven by the timing belt. The oil pump is chain driven by the oil pump drive gear located on the snout of the crankshaft.

Watch the video below for more information on how to identify you 1.8T block type:

Mains Caps & Bearings

Like most other VAG 4 cylinder engines, the 1.8T uses 5 two-bolt main caps. There are 4 outer main caps and one center main cap that contains crankshaft thrust bearings (also commonly called thrust washers). The stock main caps are cast iron and can be upgraded to IE's billet steel versions as power output increases.

The block side of the main caps have M10 threads but the lengths between 06A and 058 vary as noted below:

• 06A main bolts - M10x80mm Manufacturers Part Number: N90130001 IE Part Number: OEM-18T-MAIN06A

• 058 main bolts - M10x65mm (commonly used in engine codes AEB or ATW) Manufacturers Part Number: N10263801 IE Part Number: OEM-18T-MAIN058

• Thrust bearings (used in all 1.8T engines) Manufacturers Part Numbers: 026198421 / 026105635A IE Part Number: OEM-18T-THRUST

Crankshaft

All 1.8T stock cranks have a stroke of 86.4mm.  Cranks found in the 06A can be found forged or cast iron. Most 058 crankshafts are cast iron. The timing belt drive gear and crankshaft damper is attached via a 4 bolt interface. Also on the crankshaft is the trigger wheel which is used in part with the crank sensor to determine engine RPM.

• 06A blocks use a slotted style trigger wheel.

• 058 blocks use a dented style trigger wheel.

Rods & Bearings

All 1.8T connecting rods measure 144mm on the center-to-center dimension and have a big-end journal width of 24.90mm. With the common measurements out of the way, that leaves the wrist pin size, which vary depending on engine codes.

• Most 06A 1.8T engines employ a 19mm wrist pin (225 horsepower models use 20mm).

• 058 1.8T engines typically use a 20mm wrist pin.

Pistons

Some 1.8T pistons are cast rather than forged, which results in a fairly weak piston. Some engine codes did have forged pistons but they are not designed for high power levels, and still not as robust as forged aftermarket pistons.

• All stock 1.8T pistons have a bore size of 81mm.

• Factory published compression ratios tend to vary but from our experience actual compression ratios range from 9.25:1 to 9.3:1.

This section will be separated by different horsepower levels. Our goal is to point you in the right direction and make your build a success.

300HP+ Connecting Rod & Piston Upgrades

At 300+ hp we often recommend using a set of IE connecting rods with stock pistons. This proven combination works fine as long as the piston skirts and cylinder walls are in good shape. In high mileage or worn blocks,  larger bore aftermarket pistons should be used so piston-to-wall clearances can be set correctly. It is fairly common knowledge at this point that 1.8T connecting rods are the weak point in the bottom end, since they were designed for only 150-225HP depending on the model.

Two main factory connecting rod weaknesses:

• Very narrow beam design that leads to bent rods under increased torque.

• Inferior metals (stock rods are usually made from sintered iron) compared to aftermarket forged rods.  These weak alloys lead to broken connecting rod beams.

There are two possible solutions if you are planning on using upgraded rods with stock pistons connecting rod options:

• 06A blocks will typically require 144x19mm connecting rods that have a tapered wrist pin (with the exception of 225hp engines). There are many engine codes that accept these rods with stock pistons. (availabe with rifle drilling) IE part numbers: IERHVA2, IERHVA2-RD

•  058 blocks or other high-output (225 HP) 1.8T engines will typically require 144x20mm connecting rods to be used stock pistons.  Common engine codes that use 20mm wrist pins are AEB, AGU, AMK, AMU, APX, ATC, ATW, AWD, AYP, and BEA. (available with rifle drilling) IE part numbers IERHVA1, IERHVA1-RD

Connecting Rod Rifle Drilling

Rifle drilling is an oiling hole that travels the length of the connecting rod beam from the big end to the small end of the connecting rod. Additional pin oiling has been shown to greatly extend bushing life on daily driven or high mileage applications.

300HP+ Engine Hardware

At these power levels the stock hardware, such as main bolts, are adequate. One important fact that enthusiasts often overlook however is that many stock bolts are stretch bolts and thus are one-time use only.  Stated another way, once the bolts are removed from your engine, they must be replaced with new/unused units.

Common OE bottom end hardware that are one time use and should be replaced are:

• Head bolts (10) 06A IE Part Number: OEM-18T-HBSET06A 058 IE Part Number; OEM-18T-HBSET058

• Main studs (10) 06A IE Part Number: OEM-18T-MAIN06A 058 IE Part Number: OEM-18T-MAIN058

• Flywheel bolts (6)

• Crank damper bolt (1) 06A IE Part Number: OEM-18T-CRANKBOLT06A 058 IE Part Number: OEM-18T-CRANKBOLT058

• Crank damper pulley to timing gear bolts (4)

400-500HP Connecting Rod Upgrades

To ensure reliable operation at power levels exceeding 400HP upgrading to aftermarket pistons and rods is absolutely necessary.  All 1.8T aftermarket piston & rod combinations offered by IE use a non-tapered 144x20mm connecting rod with a matching 20mm aftermarket piston.

• H-beam 144x20- Proven strong and reliable IE Part Number: IERHVA1

• H-Beam 144x20 rifle drilled- strong and reliable with added wrist pin longevity from rifle drilling IE Part Number: IERHVA1-RD

• Tuscan I-beam 144x20- our highest quality connecting rod: strong and reliable, superior strength-to-weight ratio, included rifle drilling for wrist pin longevity IE Part Number: IERTVA1

400-500HP Piston Upgrades

• Mahle pistons- a great option for street builds and daily drivers, quiet piston operation, tight piston-to-wall clearances due to low expansion alloy. Explore pistons

• JE pistons- a great option for street or track use, uses a tough 2618 alloy piston forging, with tons of compression ratios and bore sizes available. Explore pistons

• Wiseco pistons- a great option for street or track use, affordable yet good quality, uses a tough 2618 alloy piston forging. Explore pistons

400-500HP Crankshaft Timing Gear Interface

The 1.8T timing belt system is a major weak point. The most common failure point is the timing gear located on the snout of the crankshaft. As a solution, we have developed a crankshaft timing gear that is far stronger than the original unit and also an ARP crank bolt that increases the amount of force holding the gear on.

For 06A applications, we offer a press-fit timing gear along with an IE Spec ARP crank bolt.

• IE 06A 4 bolt billet press-fit timing gear IE Part Number: IEBEVA17

• IE 06A/06F 6 bolt billet press-fit timing gear (For customers upgrading to a 6 bolt timing gear and crank damper pulley) IE Part Number: IEBEVC8

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt is also reusable and does not need to be replaced) IE Part Number: ARP-06A-01

For 058 applications, we offer a dowel-pinned OEM timing gear, along with an IE Spec ARP crank bolt.

• IE dowel pin kit (This kit allows you to drill and ream a hole in the end of the crankshaft, which allows a hardened steel pin to be installed) IE Part Number: IEBEVA6

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt increases clamping force on the timing gear and is reusable) IE Part Number: ARP-058-01

400-500HP Engine Bearings

We highly recommend using a performance main bearing and rod bearing as power levels increase. The main advantage of performance bearings is due to a tri-metal composition they are able to withstand added bearing loads and are better suited to withstand crankshaft flex.

• Mahle Motorsport main bearings IE Part Number: MAH-VM1028

• Mahle Motorsport rod bearings IE Part Number: MAH-VC1027

• Standard OE replacement thrust bearings IE Part Number: OEM-18T-THRUST

400-500HP Engine Hardware

At this power level, the stock hardware is typically sufficient as long as it is never reused. If you plan on pushing the car further in the future you may want to consider to upgrading to ARP engine hardware. As an added bonus, ARP hardware is reusable and does not need to be replaced if removed.

1.8T 06A ARP Hardware:

• Main Stud Kit (Requires main cap align hone) IE Part Number: ARP-CVA3

• Head Bolt Kit IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-3901 (kit only) ARP-204-3902 (with install tool)

• Head Stud Kit IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-4103 (kit only) ARP-204-4104 (with install tool)

• IE Spec Crank Bolt IE Part Number: ARP-06A-01

• Flywheel bolts IE Part Number: ARP-VWFLYWHEELBOLT

1.8T 058 ARP Hardware:

• Main Stud Kit (Requires main cap align hone) IE Part Number: ARP-204-5402

• Head Stud Kit IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-4101 (kit only) ARP-204-4102 (with install tool)

• IE Spec Crank Bolt IE Part Number: ARP-058-01

• Flywheel bolts IE Part Number: ARP-VWFLYWHEELBOLT

Also, be sure to check out our complete ARP hardware kits for 06A and 058 engines.

400-500HP Main Cap Upgrades

The stock main caps are cast and lack the rigidity required for a reliable high powered build. As an upgrade we offer billet steel main caps that are far more rigid and will help to reduce main bearing wear. Be sure to check that your machine shop can align bore and hone mains before ordering.

• IE 06A/058 1.8T cylinder billet main caps IE Part Number: IEBEVA1

500HP+ Connecting Rod Upgrades

• • H-beam 144x20- Proven strong and reliable IE Part Number: IERHVA1

  • H-Beam 144x20 rifle drilled- strong and reliable with added wrist pin longevity from rifle drilling IE Part Number: IERHVA1-RD

  • Tuscan I-beam 144x20- our highest quality connecting rod: strong and reliable, superior strength-to-weight ratio, included rifle drilling for wrist pin longevity IE Part Number: IERTVA1

500HP+ Piston Upgrades

• Mahle pistons - standard Mahle shelf pistons unfortunately come with fairly weak wrist pins in most 1.8T applications. At this power level, you should consider using our 1.8T Mahle Stroker custom pistons, which include a very stout wrist pin. Explore pistons

• JE pistons -a great option for street or track use, manufactured from tough 2618 alloy piston forgings. Tons of compression ratios and bore sizes available. Explore pistons

JE 1.8T Custom Spec Pistons

Integrated Engineering knows these motors inside and out, we can help determine the custom specifications to design the exact piston to meet your project's goals. Contact sales@performancebyie.com to order custom spec pistons

• Any bore, compression ratio, and several crankshaft strokes available.

• Thermal dome coating - reflects heat away from the piston. Commonly used in high HP turbo builds or nitrous applications.

• Anti-friction skirt coating -  Commonly used in endurance applications to increase piston skirt longevity.

• Oil-shed coating - used to minimize rotating assembly weight, generally in high RPM naturally aspirated applications.

• Upgraded wrist pins - options range from small and lightweight to stout and strong for turbo high HP turbo builds.

• Lateral gas ports - ensures superior piston ring seal by increasing gas pressure behind the rings. Only recommend for race use as lateral gas ports generally become clogged quickly and wear rings quickly in street applications.

500HP+ Crankshaft Options

Some stock 1.8T crankshafts are made from cast iron. At a certain point, it is a good idea to upgrade to a forged crankshaft. For that reason, many serious 1.8T builds use a forged 2.0L crank to convert the 1.8L block into a 2008cc 2.0L stroker engine. (Requires stroker pistons)

• 2.0T FSI 92.8mm Stroker Crankshaft -This factory forged 2.0 FSI crankshaft is modified with a special IE oil pump drive gear which makes it a drop in 2008cc crankshaft for 06A blocks. IE Part Number: IESKVA6

500HP+ Crank Damper Options

At this power level using a crankshaft damper such as Fluidampr can increase main bearing life by absorbing crankshaft vibrations. We generally recommend one of the two following options. 06A block only

• 4 bolt Fluidampr crankshaft damper IE Part Number: FD-551201 + 4 bolt IE press fit gear IE Part Number: IEBEVA17

If you do not already own any 4 bolt components we would recommend using the following 6 bolt components for added security at no extra cost.

• 6 bolt Fluidampr crankshaft damper IE Part Number: FD-551211 + 6 bolt IE press fit gear IE Part Number: IEBEVC8

500HP+ Main Caps & Girdle Plate Upgrades

At this point the main caps should be upgraded at minimum to prevent excessive main bearing wear. As power levels increase you should consider using billet main caps and a main bearing girdle kit.

• IE 06A standard main caps & IE girdle kit - Standard main caps are the simpler solution as they use spacers on the top of main caps. The spacers are then machined to form a level oil pan surface that the girdle plate will sit on. IE Part Number: IEBEVA9

• IE 06A tallboy main caps & IE girdle kit - Tallboy main caps, an Integrated Engineering innovation, require complex machining to be installed installed. Instead of using spacers on top of the main caps, the main caps stand proud of the deck and then must be machined flat. In the end they are the better solution as they provide a more stable, and flat, mounting surface for the girdle plate. IE Part Number: IEBEVA13

• IE 058 standard main caps & IE girdle kit - Standard main caps are the simpler solution as they use spacers on the top of main caps. The spacers are then machined to form a level oil pan surface that the girdle plate will sit on. IE Part Number: IEBEVA12

• IE 058 tallboy main caps & IE girdle kit - Tallboy main caps, an Integrated Engineering innovation, require complex machining to be installed installed. Instead of using spacers on top of the main caps, the main caps stand proud of the deck and then must be machined flat. In the end they are the better solution as they provide a more stable, and flat, mounting surface for the girdle plate. IE Part Number: IEBEVA14

500HP+ Crankshaft Timing Gear Interface

 The 1.8T timing belt system is a major weak point. The most common failure point is the timing gear located on the snout of the crankshaft. As a solution we have developed a crankshaft timing gear that is far stronger than the original unit and also an ARP crank bolt that increases the amount of force holding the gear on.

For 06A applications, we offer a press-fit timing gear along with an IE Spec ARP crank bolt.

• IE 06A 4 bolt billet press-fit timing gear IE Part Number: IEBEVA17

• IE 06A/06F 6 bolt billet press-fit timing gear (For customers upgrading to a 6 bolt timing gear and crank damper pulley) IE Part Number: IEBEVC8

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt is also reusable and does not need to be replaced) IE Part Number: ARP-06A-01

For 058 applications, we offer a dowel-pinned OEM timing gear, along with an IE Spec ARP crank bolt.

• IE dowel pin kit (This kit allows you to drill and ream a hole in the end of the crankshaft, which allows a hardened steel pin to be installed) IE Part Number: IEBEVA6

• IE/ARP crank bolt (This bolt increases clamping force on the timing gear and is reusable) IE Part Number: ARP-058-01

500HP+ Wrist Pin Upgrades

Why did we create a section just about wrist pins? We have seen endless builds fail due to under spec’d wrist pins. Many piston manufacturers use a lighter spec pin that works for lower horsepower builds, however with higher HP levels and raised cylinder pressures you need a stronger wrist pin. For any build using JE pistons, we recommend upgrading to the tool steel wrist pins. Be sure to always check the material specifications and wrist pin wall thickness to avoid any pin failures!

500HP+ Engine Bearings

We highly recommend using a performance main bearing and rod bearing as power levels increase. The main advantage of performance bearings is due to a tri-metal composition they are able to withstand added bearing loads and are better suited to withstand crankshaft flex.

• Mahle Motorsport main bearings IE Part Number: MAH-VM1028

• Mahle Motorsport rod bearings IE Part Number: MAH-VC102

• Standard OE replacement thrust bearings IE Part Number: OEM-18T-THRUST

500HP+ Engine Hardware

At this power level, the stock hardware is no longer sufficient. With the increased levels of load, it is very highly recommended to upgrade to ARP engine hardware. As an added bonus, ARP hardware is reusable and does not need to be replaced if removed.

1.8T 06A ARP Hardware:

• Main Stud Kit (Requires main cap align hone) IE Part Number: ARP-CVA3

• Head Bolt Kit IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-3901 (kit only) ARP-204-3902 (with install tool)

• Head Stud Kit IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-4103 (kit only) ARP-204-4104 (with install tool)

• IE Spec Crank Bolt IE Part Number: ARP-06A-01

• Flywheel bolts IE Part Number: ARP-VWFLYWHEELBOLT

1.8T 058 ARP Hardware:

• Main Stud Kit (Requires main cap align hone) IE Part Number: ARP-204-5402

• Head Stud Kit IE Part Numbers: ARP-204-4101 (kit only) ARP-204-4102 (with install tool)

• IE Spec Crank Bolt IE Part Number: ARP-058-01

• Flywheel bolts IE Part Number: ARP-VWFLYWHEELBOLT

Also, be sure to check out our complete ARP hardware kits for 06A and 058 engines.

This concludes our overview on building a 1.8T 20V bottom end. If you have any further questions, please contact us or leave a comment below. Thanks for reading!

Style Meets Power: Nik Preusser’s Bagged  MK6 Jetta SportWagen with IE 2.5L Power Kit

Nik’s story is bound to resonate with many that have served a large portion of their lives in the Armed Forces. Throughout his Air Force life he lived in several countries including Turkey, Portugal, Guam, various regions of the Middle East, Japan, and several states in the USA.

After 7 years of active duty service as an air traffic controller, a career with the Federal Aviation Administration was pursued. This career has kept Nik busy, but it has also allowed him to support several hobbies that include cars, photography, and of course his family.

His first car was a 1988 Chevy Caprice, that as he puts it, “was about 10 different colors of gray, had a faulty power steering system (which wasn’t much fun when driving something that compares to a land yacht), caught on fire twice, and typically didn’t start”. It wasn’t until living in Japan, and the release of The Fast and the Furious movie, that he started to think about what other car possibilities may be out there.

A few months later, Nik purchased a Honda Prelude that eventually received the “full ricer treatment”. You name it, this car had it: underglows, interior neons, large Enkei wheels, an eardrum-popping sound system, and a full exhaust system with a giant “fart can” muffler.

Later on in Japan, at age 19, he purchased a 1991 Nissan Skyline GTS-T HCR32 which received a much more tasteful list of mods. These mods included: HKS coilovers, a full turbo-back Dart-Izumi exhaust, front mount intercooler, intake, boost controller, upgraded injectors and fuel pump, OS Giken twin-plate clutch, and a tune.

One interesting observation that we have made at IE from our customer spotlight series is that the influence of Fast and Furious has been monumental. Yes, the fact that you can shift 12 times during a ¼ mile race is ridiculous, but it truly converted a lot of young kids into car guys. We think that’s pretty cool result from technically way-off-base movies.

In 2013 Nik decided to purchase a MK6 Jetta SportWagen due to its good looks and overall utilitarian purpose. Like many 2.5L owners, he loved the exhaust note and engine noise the best.

With a newborn son and growing family, he and his wife also needed something with some space (no hatchback allowed in this case). While fairly docile at first, these engines respond quite positively to an improved intake and exhaust system.

It took Nik quite a while to find the SportWagen he wanted (Platinum Grey, 2.5L, and manual transmission) and eventually had one trucked from California to Utah.

Within a couple months of owning it, car parts starting showing up on his doorstep. One of those items were AirLift and Accuair air ride suspension components. Nik commented that, “Choosing to add air ride suspension was largely a result of my wife being pregnant. I had heard that they offered a more comfortable ride than most coilovers, which was important to us at the time. It was also a major bonus that it looked cool”.  While he did add a lot of parts to make the car look better, the car is far from a dedicated show car. It’s primary use is a family hauler and a commuter. Although it’s not their only car, it gets driven every day—rain or shine (or a few inches of Utah snow).

IE came to know Nik when he decided it was time to add more power to his 2.5L. He already had the style aspect of the car well covered, but the car needed more get up and go. We then introduced Nik to our 2.5L Power Kit that fits MK5 and MK6 2.5L 5 cylinder cars with the electric power steering pump. The kit has proven to add gains in excess of 45 horsepower and torque on most applications, and is also a great aesthetic upgrade.

The 2.5L Power Kit includes the IE 2.5L Short Runner Intake Manifold, in-house developed IE Software, and an IE Direct Fit Air Intake. The kit was designed with a budget in mind, and in our opinion, delivers a great bang for the buck. It’s the only complete kit on the market that delivers the best horsepower to dollars ratio. Since Nik is a local customer as well, he received the added benefit of a custom tune on IE’s dyno.

The power numbers of Nik’s ride were fairly impressive considering it’s only naturally aspirated (not turbocharged). The following power charts are from our in-house Dynapack Hub Dyno:

After installation Nik reflected on the kit, “The Integrated Engineering 2.5L Power Kit far exceeded my expectations. The engine bay looks so much nicer and the car is a blast to drive. I didn’t expect to ever really enjoy driving the JSW, but I love driving it now. It sounds so nice and the added power makes the car much more responsive”.

The future plans for his JSW include the aesthetic mods of projector headlights, LED taillights, and some interior work (GTI seats, steering wheel, and so on).

On the performance side: an IE Dogbone Insert and IE Catch Can Kit will be installed, and possibly down the road a high compression bottom end build or even some forced induction. IE will certainly be here to help Nik with his performance needs.

During the course of the build Nik also took advantage of the military discount that IE offers. While it’s only a small discount, he was appreciative that IE supports the armed forces.

Be sure to keep an eye out for Nik and his ride along the Wasatch Front this summer!  He’ll be attending several meet and greets with his stylish and now substantially quicker JSW.

Engine/Performance:

• Integrated Engineering 2.5L Intake Manifold – Black Finish
• Integrated Engineering 2.5L Air Intake Kit for IE Intake Manifold
• Integrated Engineering In-house Dyno Tune
• Integrated Engineering Billet Fuel Rail – Red Anodized
• Integrated Engineering Billet Valve Cover– Red Anodized
• AWE Tuning Track Edition Exhaust - Polished
• VW OEM Plastic Battery Cover (swapped from cloth box)
• Porsche 911 OEM Oil Cap
• Porsche 911 OEM Expansion Tank Cap
• Bremmen Washer Fluid Cap – Black

Exterior & Style Mods:

• VW OEM Zubehör Golf Votex Front Valance
• VW OEM Zubehör Golf Votex Side Skirts
• VW OEM Zubehör Jetta Sportwagen Votex Rear Valance
• VW OEM Zubehör Jetta Sportwagen Left-Exit Diffuser
• Cleared Front Corner Lights
• BBS CH wheels - 18x8.5+35 –Custom Powdercoated Bronze

Suspension:

• AirLift Performance Series Front Struts with Camber Plates
• AirLift Double-Bellow Slam Series Rear Bags
• AirLift Slam Series Rear Shocks
• AirLift Shortened Front Sway Bar End-links
• IDF Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms
• Accuair VU4 Manifold
• Accuair E-Level ECU
• Accuair E-Level Rocker Switch
• Accuair iLevel WiFi Module/Controller
• VIAIR Dual 444c Compressors
• Airlift 4-Gallon Air Tank – Polished

Interior:

• OEM VW RNS-315 Touchscreen Navigation (swapped from RCD-310)
• OEM VW GTI Interior (front and rear seats with door cards)
• Broadway Rearview Mirror

Bonus video coverage that Nik produced himself:

Integrated Engineering MK7/MQB TSI GEN 3 FDS Intercooler Install: Part Number - IETPCI1

Thank you for purchasing another high quality Integrated Engineering product! This instruction guide is used for installation of the Integrated Engineering FDS Intercooler Kit for MQB applications. This kit needs to be installed by a professional or an experienced technician. Integrated Engineering is not responsible for any damage caused by incorrect installation.

Kit Contents:

• (1) IE FDS Intercooler
• (1) Passenger side silicone hose
• (1) Driver side silicone hose
• (2) Hose clamps (60-80mm)
• (1) Brass plug for water-meth port
• (2) Service position bolts

INSTALL PROCESS:

To begin, open the IE FDS Intercooler Kit and inspect all components, and verify their quantities. Park your car on level surface and apply the parking brake or rack your car on a auto lift. It is also recommended to allow the car to cool before beginning this install procedure.

Remove both front wheels as you will need access to the fender liners in order to remove the front bumper.

Remove the belly pan by removing the T25 torx screws that secures it in place.

Remove the T25 torx screw from the underside of the bumper that secures it to the radiator support.

Remove the T25 torx screws in the wheel well that secure the front bumper. You can now remove the lower wheel liners.

Be sure to remove the torx located under the fender liner towards the top of the bumper. Repeat on both sides.

Remove the headlight washer fluid line (located on the passenger side of LHD cars) by squeezing the blue tabs on the fitting.

Remove the T25 torx screws on the top of the grill. Once they are removed, pull forward slightly and then lift straight up to remove the grill.

Remove three T30 torx screw in the center to release the bumper from the radiator support bracket.

The front bumper can now be removed by pulling on the outer top edge. Use caution during this step to not break the plastic clips that fasten the bumper. If you car has parking sensors, those will need to be disconnected in this step also.

Disconnect the hood release cable link (follow the photos below).

Remove the 3 T25 torx screws and remove the upper headlight bracket, repeat on both sides.

Remove the T30 torx screw securing the outside of headlight to the bumper bracket. Repeat on both sides.

Remove the two T30 torx screws from the engine bay side of the headlight. Disconnect the headlight connectors. You can now remove both headlights.

Remove stock air box or aftermarket intake from the engine bay. In this case we removed the IE MK7 MQB intake.

You will also need to remove three clips (one on top, two on bottom) that fasten the plastic air guides that bolt to both sides of the radiator support.

To fully remove the bumper support bracket, remove the two T30 torx screws remaining on the outside of the support. Release the two push tabs on the inside of the support. Be careful when removing to not break plastic components on the bumper support bracket.

Remove both intercooler charge pipes. Use a 7mm socket to loosen the hose clamps.

Drain coolant by removing lower radiator hose. Remove the spring clip and pull the hose away from the radiator outlet.

Detach upper radiator hose by removing the spring clip and pull the hose away from the radiator.

Remove the three connectors from the radiator support. There are two yellow connectors and one black connector located at the top of the radiator support. Be sure there are no electrical connectors still attached to the radiator support.

Remove three of the four 16mm bolts that attach the crash beam to the frame rails. Repeat on both sides. Thread the included support bolts in by hand into outside bottom corners of the frame rails on both side.

Remove the final 16mm bolt securing crash beam to the frame horns.The radiator support will now tilt forward into service position.

Remove the two T30 screws securing the coolant pipe located in front of the intake manifold to the radiator fan.

Next, remove the cooling fan connector.

Press locking tab on the radiator fan and pull up to remove.

Release intercooler mounting tabs from front of car. The AC condenser, intercooler, and radiator will now be able to slide back out of the core support.

Press down on the radiator securing tabs from the top of the intercooler with a flat head screwdriver and pull the radiator away from the IC. You can now remove the radiator.

Remove the two air guides from the front of the condenser. Remove these by releasing the tab located on the bottom.

Depress the tab on the intercooler end tank and pull up on the condenser. Leave the condenser in radiator support and carefully remove the intercooler by lowering it from the car.  Set aside the stock intercooler.

Remove the two intercooler mount brackets from the side of the stock intercooler, and re-install them in the same orientation onto the IE intercooler.

The IE FDS Intercooler can now be installed. Remove the protective cardboard and intercooler inlet/outlet plastic covers and install the plastic mounts onto the end tanks. Install the water-meth plug into the intercooler or your water-meth nozzle if you have one.

Lift the intercooler from the bottom of the car into place and ensure the locating tabs on the bottom of the intercooler are inserted into the rubber grommets. Install the four set screws that mount the condenser to the intercooler. You may have to tap the condenser tabs into the slots on the front of the FDS intercooler.

Now that the FDS intercooler has been installed, begin reassembling the car by following the reverse of the procedure detailed above. You will need to reassemble the car completely with the exception of installing the belly pan. Before installing the belly pan, the intercooler hoses will be installed.

Install the passenger side silicone hose. You will reuse the factory clamp on the plastic barb side. On the intercooler side use one of 60-80mm silicone hose clamps. It may be helpful to use carb cleaner or similar as lubricant during the install. Tighten both clamps firmly.

Install the driver side silicone hose. You will reuse the factory clamp on the plastic barb side. On the intercooler side, the other 60-80mm silicone hose clamp will be used.  Tighten both clamps firmly.

After installing both hoses you can now reinstall the belly pan.

Fill the engine cooling system with proper mix of factory-specified coolant, then bleed off any air trapped in the cooling system.

Start the car and confirm that none of the coolant connections are leaking.

Thank you for purchasing another Integrated Engineering product. We are dedicated to serving your VW/Audi engine and performance needs. Please check our website frequently for new product releases. If you have any questions or concerns about this product please do not hesitate to contact us.

CONTACT:

Integrated Engineering 801.484.2021 sales@performancebyie.com www.performancebyie.com

INSTALL GUIDE

IEDTCG1 Dogbone Bushing Insert Kit For Audi B8 & B9 Chassis

Thank you for purchasing another high quality Integrated Engineering product! This instruction guide is used for installation of the Integrated Engineering TruFIT Dogbone Mount Insert for Audi B8/B8.5 and B9 applications. This kit needs to be installed by a professional or an experienced technician. Integrated Engineering is not responsible for any damage caused by incorrect installation.

Kit Contents:

• (1) IE TruFIT Dogbone Insert

• (2) Insert Spacers

Required Tools:

• #10 Triple Square Socket

• Socket Wrench

Step 1.

Open the IE TruFIT Dogbone Insert Kit, inspect all components, and verify part quantities.

Step 2.

Put your car on jack stands or on an automotive lift and identify the dogbone mount bushing located on the subframe.

Step 3.

Remove the two #10 triple square bolts and support bracket from the dogbone bushing.  Place these off to the side as they will be re-installed.

Step 4.

Apply silicone spray liberally to the new mount insert AND the stock rubber mount. Line up the dogbone insert with the dogbone bushing and press it in by hand.

Step 5.

Place the two small insert spacers on the inside of the new mount insert.

Step 6.

Replace the dogbone support bracket on the underside of the new mount insert and reinstall the dogbone bushing triple square bolts. Torque the bolts to 15 ft/lbs.

Thank you for purchasing another Integrated Engineering product. We are dedicated to serving your VW/Audi engine and performance needs. Please check our website frequently for new product releases. If you have any questions or concerns about this product please do not hesitate to contact us.

Integrated Engineering

801.484.2021

sales@performancebyie.com

INSTALL GUIDE

IEDTCI1 & IEDTCI2 Dogbone Insert Kit For MK7 & MQB Chassis

Thank you for purchasing another high quality Integrated Engineering product! This instruction guide is used for installation of the Integrated Engineering TruFIT Dogbone Mount Insert for Audi & VW MK7 and MQB applications. This kit needs to be installed by a professional or an experienced technician. Integrated Engineering is not responsible for any damage caused by incorrect installation.

Kit Contents:

• (1) IE TruFIT Dogbone Insert

• (2) Insert Base

Required Tools:

• 21mm Socket

• Socket Wrench

 Step 1.

Open the IE TruFIT Dogbone Insert Kit, inspect all components, and verify part quantities.

 Step 2.

Put your car on jack stands or on an automotive lift and identify the dogbone mount bushing located on the subframe.

 Step 3.

Remove the 21mm bushing center bolt and place it off to the side as it will be re-installed.

 Step 4.

Apply silicone spray liberally to the new mount insert AND the stock rubber mount. Line up the dogbone insert with the dogbone bushing and press it in by hand.

 Step 5.

Place the insert base on the underside of the new mount insert.

 Step 6.

Reinstall the dogbone bushing center bolt. Torque the bolt to 74 ft/lbs.

Thank you for purchasing another Integrated Engineering product. We are dedicated to serving your VW/Audi engine and performance needs. Please check our website frequently for new product releases. If you have any questions or concerns about this product please do not hesitate to contact us:

Integrated Engineering

801.484.2021

sales@performancebyie.com